Re: [microsound] A little help? Prepping gear for euroland

[ãããããããã <ndkent@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

It's almost obvious, but the first thing I'd do is read the AC power  
rating printed on each item. It's going to probably say either 120v  
60Hz or say 100-240V. 50-60Hz. If it's says the 240 part then it's  
good to go, just get an a european prongs adaptor and you are good to  
go. They tend to be a little easier to find in Europe.

If it says just 120 or 100-120  and doesn't mention 220-240 then you  
are going to need a converter for it.

I never had any problem myself after I read what's printed right on  
the gear.

What you'll probably find is few if any "wall warts" you have are  
rated 100-240V. 50-60Hz. Almost all will just say 120 or 100-120. I'd  
probably use your existing wall wart and plug them into a converter.  
Obviously make sure the big wart connects, you probably want a power  
strip attached to the converter. In theory you could try to buy new  
wall warts in Europe but is smells like something risky to do *and  
test* at the last minute.

Stuff that says 100-240 is probably just as safe to plug directly in  
as plugging into a converter, skipping the converter (remember the  
prong adaptor). The advantage there is if you still need a converter  
for something else maybe you can use a smaller one. In general the  
more power you need to draw the bigger and heavier the converter  
you're going to need. Though if it's just a small thing then maybe  
it's just easier to plug it into your converter.

All converters are rated, all your gear lists watts, just add them up  
and make sure your converter covers it. Here's the math. I wouldn't  
be overly concerned. It's mostly lights and heating devices, not  
little digital instruments that are high wattage.
http://www.simetric.co.uk/si_watts.htm

I guess the dangers are a lot of cheap converters are kind of "under  
the counter" items and aren't always safety approved. The one issue  
I've heard has happened to some people is Europe uses 50Hz. Japan  
uses 50Hz in parts of the country so Japanese goods are ready. Here's  
the bad combo - some rare  gear- not much but it's out there - uses  
60Hz for timing and many converters leave the Euopean 50Hz as is. So  
if  your gear says 50-60 your are set for anything the right voltage.
 I've never heard of stuff frying this way - that only happens with  
the wrong voltage. But people have reported stuff running at the  
wrong speed or not running. You probably don't have the exception but  
stuff is out there.

Another sort of obvious thing though it's worth pointing out is some  
gear well over a decade old doesn't have automatically switching  
power though it's compatible worldwide. Some old gear has an actual  
little switch that's almost always real obvious because it says  
voltage the device is set to and is near the power connector. Here's  
the reminder. - double check the switch before you turn it on.

> I've read and heard mixed things from different people. I've read and
> been told that even if you successfully convert to proper voltages   
> and
> things that you still run the risk of frying your items and/or   
> blowing a
> fuse for different reasons.

Yeah, one "dumb" mistake is someone gets a converter that only  
converts N. American power to  European power (110 to 220) not the  
other way or both ways.  Then they go to Europe and have a big problem

Drawing more than the power rated for your converter is the only  
"special" circumstance. It's unlikely you'll do that with your very  
low amperage gear.  Don't plug a hair drier,  floodlight or a mega  
amp into your power strip though.

Certainly other things can happen but they could just as well happen  
anywhere - like  a venue has flakey and or dangerous power to begin  
with.



---------------------------------------------------------------------
To unsubscribe, e-mail: microsound-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
For additional commands, e-mail: microsound-help@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
website: http://www.microsound.org